Libse Nail Cosmetics Ltd Nail Tip Application

Side Walls Missing

This type of nail has either 1 or 2 side walls missing. It could have been caused form previous services (misuse of the file from another technician), habitual picking and biting of the nails and the side walls at an earlier age, another cause could have been a fungal infection at some point that had eaten away the side walls.

This type of nail needs support at the weak points. The tip will need to be high at the sides to give aid. But if you have the tip high at the sides you will find that the whole well area is covering more than 1/3 of the natural nail (this will make the nail extension tip heavy).

You will have to choose a natural, full well tip to combat this. Assess whether both sides need support or only one side. If it is both, you will need to cut or file a "V" into the middle of the nail tips. This "V" will expose more of the natural nail, making it less likely to be tip heavy. If only one side is missing, keep the side needing support higher than the attached side. The well area needs to be angled depending on which side needs support. Looking like this "/" or "\".

A Natural Tip is the best tip to use as it has a full well area.

Flat Nails

Most nails have a natural curve, but some are quite flat. You need a flat tip. As most nail tips have a curve, you will have to make the tip more flexible else it may be uncomfortable to wear. Another problem that can occur is splitting of the nail tip from the free edge, because of the pressure.

Chose a natural shaped tip with a full well area. Size the tip from side wall to side wall. Look down the barrol of the tip to see if it is too curved. If it is, then chose the next size up ( EG: if a size 5 fit perfectly side wall to side wall, but is too curved then exchange it for a size 4 - which is larger). This new tip will be too wide. So, with your file take down the sides to reduce the width. As you are reducing you will notice that the curve is less curvatious. This should hopefully solve the problem.

However

If it is still not flat enough you can use the "V" technique to make the tip even more expandable. Just file a "V" into the well area.

A Natural Tip is the best option - but do pre-tailor to reduce the curve.

Pre -Tailoring the Nail Tips

Throughout the "Nail Shape " section we briefly mentioned the word " Pre-tailoring". Pre-tailoring is customising the nail tip to fit the individual. You can just take them out of the box and "whack" them on, but you will find that the nails wont last long.

Take a look at ther natural nail shape and use the tips/hints in the "Nail Shape" section to guide you.

But always remember

The "Nail Tip" is for shape only. It does not contribute to the strength of the nail extension. The overlaying product (Acrylic, Fibreglass or UV gel) gives the nail extension its strength and durability.

You need to have at least 2/3 of the natural nail exposed after applying the tip. So you may need to reduce the "well area " of the nail tip. You can reduce this area with a file , clippers or scissors. The average nail technician will use her file.

Hold your file at the very end and strike the file down at a 33 degree angle. Ensure the file is flush with the well area. This method does take practice. If you find it difficult you can always use scissors.

DIAGRAM

The diagram shows examples of pre-tailoued tips. We have used a blue shading to identify the plastic nail tips.

A ...... A perfect nail with the well area taken down.

B....... A nail with one side wall missing - note that
one side of the nail tip is higher than the other.

C ...... Tip with both side walls missing. A "V" has
been etched into the well area

Glueing The Tip

Apply adhesive to the "well area" only. Try not to use too much as it will run into the cuticle and side wall area.

Holding the nail tip at an upright angle, butt the tip up against the free edge of the nail until the "contact area" has made contact with the free edge. When you feel that the tip is centred then push the tip down to make contact with the nail in one swift movement. This movement will push out any air. Hold the tip in place for approximately 5-7 seconds. Do not wiggle or agitate the nail tip with in this period else air bubbles can appear.

Wipe away any excess adhesive with a nail wipe or cotton bud.

Air Bubbles

Air bubbles are little pockets of air trapped between the nail tip and the natural nail. They do not look very attractive and they will cause problems later on. The tip has not been fitted properly and will be prone to breakages in the future. It will take a while till you get the hang of tip application. A flawless finish will eventually come with practice.

Blending The Tips

Blending will make the tip invisible to the naked eye. It is tricky, but it is also necessary

Using either a 240 grit file or a 180 grit file start blending the nail tips. This is very daunting in the beginning. It takes a lot of practice and confidence to achieve a seamless finish. Holding your file at the end, start in the corners. Do not angle your file into the corners, but sweep towards the centre of the nail ensuring not to hit the natural nail. Try to blend both sides, and then combat the centre of the nail. Put your thumb over the exposed natural nail as a shield to make sure you do not catch the natural nail with your file.

Don't concentrate too much to the seam line, but to the well area as a whole. Once you have produced a seamless finish then stop and finish the area with a white block or Sand Turtle. Remove the shine from the entire nail tip. If you are using UV GEL make sure there is NO SHINE. Gel will not adhere to a shiney surface

WHITE TIPS DO NOT NEED TO BE BLENDED.

You can soften the white smile line on white tips by gently buffing them with a Sand Turtle. But be careful not to go down to far.