NAIL EXTENSION PRODUCTS
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NAIL EXTENSION PRODUCTS
Nail Tip Application
Applying Tips & Blending Safely
Nail Tip Designs
Nail tips are used to extend the existing nail length and to produce a desired shape. They are available in many styles to accommodate most nail shapes and to suit particular client preferences. You will find that some clients may prefer a curved nail, whilst others prefer a more classic shape. Some clients like a white tip to produce a french manicure look.
Before you start lets take a look at the main natural nail shapes that you will come across.
The first thing to consider is what shape nails your client has? This will help you to determine which is the best tip design for her nails. You will also need to custom fit the tip (pre-tailour) the tip for specific nail types.
Not so easy as you thought !
If your client has " perfect nails" tip choice will be easier. What do we class as perfect nails? Nails that have the side walls attached and boasting a nice crisp smile line. They will not be too flat or too curved, but will have a nice natural shape and curvation.
Tips that wil suit you best re as follows:
Cut - Out Tip
Side Walls Missing
This type of nail has either 1 or 2 side walls missing. It could have been caused form previous services (misuse of the file from another technician), habitual picking and biting of the nails and the side walls at an earlier age, another cause could have been a fungal infection at some point that had eaten away the side walls.
This type of nail needs support at the weak points. The tip will need to be high at the sides to give aid. But if you have the tip high at the sides you will find that the whole well area is covering more than 1/3 of the natural nail (this will make the nail extension tip heavy).
You will have to choose a natural, full well tip to combat this. Assess whether both sides need support or only one side. If it is both, you will need to cut or file a "V" into the middle of the nail tips. This "V" will expose more of the natural nail, making it less likely to be tip heavy. If only one side is missing, keep the side needing support higher than the attached side. The well area needs to be angled depending on which side needs support. Looking like this "/" or "\".
A Natural Tip is the best tip to use as it has a full well area.
Most nails have a natural curve, but some are quite flat. You need a flat tip. As most nail tips have a curve, you will have to make the tip more flexible else it may be uncomfortable to wear. Another problem that can occur is splitting of the nail tip from the free edge, because of the pressure.
Chose a natural shaped tip with a full well area. Size the tip from side wall to side wall. Look down the barrol of the tip to see if it is too curved. If it is, then chose the next size up ( EG: if a size 5 fit perfectly side wall to side wall, but is too curved then exchange it for a size 4 - which is larger). This new tip will be too wide. So, with your file take down the sides to reduce the width. As you are reducing you will notice that the curve is less curvatious. This should hopefully solve the problem.
If it is still not flat enough you can use the "V" technique to make the tip even more expandable. Just file a "V" into the well area.
A Natural Tip is the best option - but do pre-tailor to reduce the curve.
Usually curved nails will have lovely long nail beds ( I am Jealous). Your biggest problem is making the tip come into contact with the sides. When applying you will need to pinch the sides to ensure contact. If you don't you may have premature lifting or cracking on the sides.
Most curved nails are at a higher risk of breakage. When caught on an object they may have a higher break. Most extensions will break from the free edge. If caught a curved nail can break across the nail plate, so it is a good idea not to exaggerate the length. Chose a safe length rather than a longer length.
Natural Tip or Curved Tip. If side walls in tact then a Cut-Out tip will also be fine.
An unfortunate shape. This type of nail is narrow at the cuticle area and then it widens to the free edge. Imagine you are fitting a tip side wall to side wall. The tip will be broad and will exaggerate the fan shape. To rectify this situation try not to have a longer length and when shaping the free edge of the nail tip when on, try to taper in the sides. An ideal shape for this type of nail is round rather than square. A square will make the fan more apparent.
A Natural Tip is probably the best tip to go for. If all side walls are intact then the Cut-Out Tip & White Tip will also be fine.
Types of Nail Tips
There are many different designs of nail tips available. We have enclosed a diagram of the "Natural Tips & Express Tips" for your viewing and understanding. We have pointed out the "WELL AREA" and the "CONTACT AREA" of each type.
The top picture is a "Natural Tip" and the one below is " Express Tip"
Most nail tips are available in 10 sizes, 1 through to 10. Size 1 will be the largest and size 10 the smallest.
Pre -Tailoring the Nail Tips
Throughout the "Nail Shape " section we briefly mentioned the word " Pre-tailoring". Pre-tailoring is customising the nail tip to fit the individual. You can just take them out of the box and "whack" them on, but you will find that the nails wont last long.
Take a look at ther natural nail shape and use the tips/hints in the "Nail Shape" section to guide you.
But always remember
The "Nail Tip" is for shape only. It does not contribute to the strength of the nail extension. The overlaying product (Acrylic, Fibreglass or UV gel) gives the nail extension its strength and durability.
You need to have at least 2/3 of the natural nail exposed after applying the tip. So you may need to reduce the "well area " of the nail tip. You can reduce this area with a file , clippers or scissors. The average nail technician will use her file.
Hold your file at the very end and strike the file down at a 33 degree angle. Ensure the file is flush with the well area. This method does take practice. If you find it difficult you can always use scissors.
The diagram shows examples of pre-tailoued tips. We have used a blue shading to identify the plastic nail tips.
A ...... A perfect nail with the well area taken down.
B....... A nail with one side wall missing - note that
one side of the nail tip is higher than the other.
C ...... Tip with both side walls missing. A "V" has
been etched into the well area
Applying The Nails - Step-By-Step
Prepare Your Nails
Make sure you have sanitised both your hands and your clients, then remove any existing nail varnish. Gently ease back the cuticles and remove any dead skin cells
Using the 180 grit of the file take down the length of your natural nails (DON'T SEE SAW) Try to remove as much of the free edge of the nail as possible. This will help to make the extended nail look more natural.
Remove The Shine
Using either a "Sanding Block" or "Sand Turtle" (we prefer the "turtles")they are kinder, get more done and don't cut cuticles), gently remove the shine from your natural nail. Removal of the shine helps to key the surface and improves adhesion.
DON'T ETCH THE NAIL WITH A HARSH FILE. If you have been taught this way previously STOP NOW.
We Reccomend - Sand Turtles for Removal of Shine
Cleanse the Nail
Using your "Nail Prep" and a nail wipe, cleanse the nail to remove any dust particles, misture, oils and bacteria. The "Nail Prep" will also dehydrate the nail plate ready for application of tips .
Sizing Your Tip
Choose a nail tip that fits side wall to side wall comfortably. Pre- tailor the nail tip to fit more accurately (take down the sides if it is on the larger size).
Make sure the nail tip's well area does not cover no more than 2/3 of the natural nail. If it does then take down the excess with your file or with scissors. This will give the extended nail strength and durability once the overlay is on.
PRE_TAILOURING YOUR NAIL TIPS IS THE KEY TO LONG LASTING NAILS.
You are custom fitting the nail tip to fit the individual.
Pre Blending is the way forward. Forget your Tip Blender it is just glorified tip remover with other ingredients added. A REAL TECH can blend tips without it.
Glueing The Tip
Apply adhesive to the "well area" only. Try not to use too much as it will run into the cuticle and side wall area.
Holding the nail tip at an upright angle, butt the tip up against the free edge of the nail until the "contact area" has made contact with the free edge. When you feel that the tip is centred then push the tip down to make contact with the nail in one swift movement. This movement will push out any air. Hold the tip in place for approximately 5-7 seconds. Do not wiggle or agitate the nail tip with in this period else air bubbles can appear.
Wipe away any excess adhesive with a nail wipe or cotton bud.
Air bubbles are little pockets of air trapped between the nail tip and the natural nail. They do not look very attractive and they will cause problems later on. The tip has not been fitted properly and will be prone to breakages in the future. It will take a while till you get the hang of tip application. A flawless finish will eventually come with practice.
Blending The Tips
Blending will make the tip invisible to the naked eye. It is tricky, but it is also necessary
Using either a 240 grit file or a 180 grit file start blending the nail tips. This is very daunting in the beginning. It takes a lot of practice and confidence to achieve a seamless finish. Holding your file at the end, start in the corners. Do not angle your file into the corners, but sweep towards the centre of the nail ensuring not to hit the natural nail. Try to blend both sides, and then combat the centre of the nail. Put your thumb over the exposed natural nail as a shield to make sure you do not catch the natural nail with your file.
Don't concentrate too much to the seam line, but to the well area as a whole. Once you have produced a seamless finish then stop and finish the area with a white block or Sand Turtle. Remove the shine from the entire nail tip. If you are using UV GEL make sure there is NO SHINE. Gel will not adhere to a shiney surface
WHITE TIPS DO NOT NEED TO BE BLENDED.
You can soften the white smile line on white tips by gently buffing them with a Sand Turtle. But be careful not to go down to far.
Once you have succesfully applied and blended the tips, you now need to cleanse the nails with your "NAIL PREP". This will remove any dust, oils, moisture and bacteria from the surface
You are now ready for the product overlay: Acrylic, Fibreglass or UV GELl
NAIL EXTENSION PRODUCTS
Nail Tip Application