Nails & Beauty Solutions Ltd UV Gel ....Application

ABOUT OUR " Simply Nails" UV GEL RANGE

At Nails & Beauty Solutions we tend to favour UV Gel based on the quality and results of our Simply Nails UV Gel range.. It is strong and durable and will outlast most.

Our Simply Nails UV Gel (Pink Shade) is our best seller.
This product and shade just literally flies out the door.

It is so versatile that you can use it for basic brush-on, as part of a 3 phase system and if you are quick enough and experienced enough you can even sculpt with it. Our UV Gel is a one component gel and has a lovely medium viscosity and easy file properties. The use of Primer and Bonder Gel is OPTIONAL. Our gels are superior and big enough to face the nail plate alone! Although......primers and bonders can be used to increase the adhesion for those problem clients.

Advantages of UV Gel

The main advantage of a UV Gel Nail System is its ease of application. The product does not set until YOU want it to set. You are in total control all of the time.

Another big advantage is that you can easily produce thin, yet strong nails. You can make your nails very thin at the cuticles , yet keep the strength in the middle and ensure that the free edge looks naturally thin.

UV Gel requires no mixing. The overlay consists of UV Gel alone, just one pot of product ready to use. No mixing a powder and liquid to try to find the right ratio and consistency. Because this product is not ratio dependent consistent results and less lifting of the product from the natural nail is within your reach.

No Odour, or little odour is associated with UV Gel. Bye, bye headaches, colds, coughs and other side effects that are commonly found with the other two nail systems (acrylic & fibreglass).

UV Gel is a non porous system and cures with a high shine. Traditional Gels will not stain when coloured nail polish has been applied.

UV Gel is now available as NON REMOVABLE (Buff Off - we call these superior gels - "Traditional Gels") or recently as a REMOVABLE GEL ( can be soaked off with Tip Remover). Personally our company favours traditional gels because they are non porous and we believe them to be less prone to lifting. We believe that traditional gels are stronger and superior. And.... Yes, we sell both!

Disadvantages of UV Gel

The disadvantage is the start up costs. UV Gel requires an electrical UV Lamp to cure (set) the gel.
Those of you using a "soak off" system such as Acrylic or Fibreglass changing to a Traditional Gel (Buff Off) may find it frustrating at first. We did! You just need to understand that less damage is caused by a buff off system than a soak of system. EG: when you buff off you always leave a thin layer on, never buff down to the natural nail. SO..... broken nails are not striped to the natural nail, SO.... when blending the new nails in less damage will occur, because you are blending near UV Gel NOT THE NAIL PLATE.

With all nail systems allergies can occur. If an allergy occurs it is probably connected to the tacky residue once cured. There are a very minute population that has a problem with this. If you get a client with such an allergy we suggest you use a SINGLE PAD per finger. When wiping away the residue you are transferring the residue to the next and subsequent fingers. SO.... instead of using one pad per hand TRY one pad per finger for such clients. If the allergy persists, maybe UV Gel is not for her....

EXOTHERMIC REACTION - HEAT SPIKE

Be warned - you can get a burning sensation if your clients nail plates are thin, damaged or sensitive. This heat sensation generally may only occur on layer 2. Layer 2 is your build layer (builds shape). You are using 2 to 3 times more UV Gel than the other 2 layers.

UV gel uses the rays of the lamp to energise and set the molecules within the gel. Each molecule when activated needs to connect to other molecules.

Imagine there are 1000 molecules on a flat coat. When activated each molecule rushes around to meet others (and so on). Layer 2 involves a flat coat AND a log of gel. This time you are imagining 3000 molecules. A lot more moving around is happening - as a result a heat sensation (exothermic reaction can occur).

TO PREVENT A HEAT SPIKE

You can either place your clients hands outside the lamp, but still within the rays. This will activate 1/2 to 1/3 of the molecules before you are ready to enter the lamp. On entering the lamp fully, ALL molecules will be activated. Your 3 minutes cure/set time will start when the nails are ALL under the full rays of the lamp

OR

You can flash your clients hands in and out slowly before attempting a full cure/set time of 3 minutes. By this we mean.... Slowly pop the hands under the lamp and count to 5. Then take out and count to 10. Repeat this 3 times to desensitise your nails. Then finally pop them in for the full cure time.

WARNING ..... IF YOUR CLIENT SENSES ANY WARM SENSATION ... TAKE HER NAILS OUT OF THE RAYS INSTANTLY. RETURN THEM SLOWLY TO LAMP WHEN SHE IS READY AND USE ONE OF THE METHODS ABOVE TO REDUCE THE RISK OF EXOTHERMIC REACTION.

Please note, this does not happen to everyone. Those that experience it can easily prevent it happening in the future by carring out our instructions above.

(all figures (1000 & 3000) are used as an example only. This is not the correct amount of molecules but given for example/demo only).

UV Gel - Summary

UV Gel is a very versatile product. You can tailor your application for your own personal preferences. UV Gel is generally applied in a series of 3 layers. However, extra layers for extra strength can be added. Each layer can also be tailored by your clients needs. For instance, maybe you applied a set and found that they where not strong enough for your client. OK, so next time you will decide to either apply your first layer a tad thicker, or maybe change the amount applied in your second layer. It certainly is not rocket science, just a matter of understanding the numerous options for shape and strength.

Many make the mistake within the Nail Industry by applying 3 flat coats. We will show you how to apply 3 coats, but also add shape and strength.

The majority of UV Gels are resilient to solvents. This means that they are unable to be soaked off. We supply both a "Removable UV Gel" and a Traditional Non Removable UV Gel (non removable being are preferred preference).

Types of UV Gels - Available From Us

STANDARD, TRADITiONAL - NON REMOVEABLE UV GEL

As mentioned previously...... we adore our traditional (non removable )UV gel. This gel is available in PINK, PINK SHIMMER, (Pink Pearl and French Pink is coming soon), CLEAR & WHITE. A beauty to work with, absolutely deivine.
Our best seller is -PINK.

REMOVABLE - SOAK OFF GEL

The removable gel, is applied the same, but can be soaked off. Soaking off nails can take between 15-25 minutes depending on the thickness. This gel is slightly more flexible and does not cure to a high gloss finish (produces a satin finish). A top coat or UV Top Gel can be used to bring back the shine. This Gel is probably the best UV Gel for beginners, till they get to grips with using their file correctly.

We are currently sourcing new removable gels. We are hoping to bring you pink, french pink and white in the near future. Unfortunately at present this gel is only available in CLEAR.

TOP GLOSS GELS

We supply a range of UV Gel Top Glosses. These top coats are NOT REMOVABLE. If you have applied a set of Removable Gel nails and decided to use one of our Top Coat Gels, you will have to firstly buff the surface of the nails to remove the top coat then soak them. The benefits of a Top Gloss Gel is the lovely high gloss shine, protective seal and a little added protection from breakage and lifting. The Top Gloss can also be used on top of Acrylic and Fibreglass to prevent lifting and to produce a high shine( you will need to remove the shine from the acrylic/fibreglass prior to applying). Another wonderful advantage is fun and fabby finishes available: Shimmers, pearls and Glitters.

The top coat gels are a thinner consistency for a flaw free finish.

BONDER GEL

A Bonder Gel can be applied for added retention. However our gel is retentive enough. Those of you that are use to using a 3 phase system may prefer to continue with a phase - 1 bonder gel.

Applying Nail Tips & Blending

Take time to read the "Nail Tip Application" sheet. Applying nail tips and blending them looks easy, but it is NOT. It is actually one of the hardest tasks to learn when learning to apply nail extensions. If you are new to nails you will have problems with "air bubbles" and "blending", you may even damage the nails. The " Nail Tip Application" sheet has lots of tips to help avoid and tackle these problems.

So here we go!

Choose a tip that fits the width of your clients nails snugly from side wall to side wall. Before applying the tip make sure that it does not cover more than 1/3 of the nail plate. If it does you will need to pre-tailor your nail tips (take away some of the well area). If the well area covers more than 1/3 of the nail, the extension will be weak. This step is vital for the longevity of the extension. So don't ignore this step.

Apply a small bead of adhesive to the "well area" of the tip and spread it gently from left to right.

Holding the tip at a 45 degree angle find the "contact area" and butt it up to the free edge of the nail. With one swift movement push the well area of the tip down to make contact with the nail. You can "pinch" the sides to ensure adhesion if you wish. If you have applied to much adhesive, mop up any excess with a cotton bud or pad. Try not to over flood the nails with adhesive as it can be discomforting for the client.

Once all ten tips are on, cut them down to your preferred length with you tip cutters and shape the free edge with the coarser (100grit) side of your 100/180 file.

You will now need to blend the tips so that there is no trace of the seam line. The finished result should look like a real nail. Blending tips can be very scary at first, but once you have mastered the technique it is relatively easy. Use the softer (180 grit) side of your file or a 240 grit file to blend.
Hold your file at the very end and sweep it across the well area in long motions. Try not to concentrate on the seam line, but the whole well area. Eventually the seam line will disappear. We tend to prefer to tackle the sides first then the centre of the area. Take time to read the help sheet on "Using Your File". The key to successful nails is knowing how to use your file without causing unnecessary damage.

A little trick is to pop some Nail Cleanse on a tissue or wipe and wipe the nail. This will mimic the appearance of an overlay for a SPLIT SECOND. If there are any flaws or missed areas you will see them. Go back and further blend if this is the case.

Layer 1 - Base Layer

APPLY EACH STEP TO THE FOUR FINGERS OF ONE HAND. ONCE CURED REPEAT STEPS TO THE FOUR FINGERS OF THE OTHER HAND. FINALLY APPLY ALL STEPS TO THE TWO REMAINING THUMBS.

This first layer is your base layer.

If using a Bonder Gel use it for this first layer rather than your Traditional Pink or Clear Gel. Pick up a little UV Gel and set it down in the upper centre part of the nail. If you are not using a bonder gel use your Pink or Clear Tradional Gel for the Layer One. The choice is yours....

Pick up a little bead of gel and set it down just short of the cuticle area. Then slowly tease/push the gel up to the cuticle area and gently budge it to the left then the right to fill the cuticle area. Make sure you have left a margin of about 2-3mm away from the cuticle and surrounding skin.

Once the cuticle area has been set up pull down/brush the gel from the cuticle area to the free edge to cover the entire nail and extended nail tip. Basically, brush down as if applying nail varnish (without too much pressure).

Remove any excess gel from your brush, and then seal the edges of the free edge by gently letting the brush overlap the free edge. This will seal the free edge.

Turn on your UV Lamp and cure/set your nails under the rays for 2 minutes. Never under cure your gel. Make sure you cure for the FULL 2 minutes.

STICKY RESIDUE

Once cured/set you will notice a tacky/sticky residue on the surface of the nails. DO NOT remove the sticky residue at this stage it is needed to bond with the next layer.

Layer 2 - Building Shape & Strength

There are TWO steps required for this layer.

FIRST STEP - Flat Coat

Pick up enough UV Gel to cover the entire nail and set it down just short of the cuticle. Gently ease it up to set up the cuticle area, and then drag it down the length of the nail as if applying nail varnish. Try to seal the edges by allowing your brush to overlap the sides of the free edge. (you can tailor this layer by making it thicker or thinner as needed)

DONT SET UNDER YOU UV LAMP YET!

SECOND STEP - Log Down The Centre

Pick up a larger bead than normal. You are going to TEASE OR FLOAT a log of UV Gel down the centre of the nail. You won't be brushing it on, but allowing it to freely drop or drizzle from the brush. Just like icing a cake really.

The LOG will add STRENGTH and SHAPE (an arch). The thickness of the log will determine the strength of the nails.

To create a THICK log you need to pick up a larger amount of gel. The slower you float your brush down the centre of the nail the thicker the log. The quicker you are the thinner the log.

READY TO TRY?

OK, you have already applied the FIRST PART OF LAYER 2 (the flat coat that has not gone under the lamp).

Pick up the gel for the LOG. Then slowly set it down just about 5-6mm away from the skin by the cuticle area and then slowly float and drizzle a log/line down the centre of the nail (as seen in diagram) then apply pressure to tail it off just before the free edge.

THIS LOG WILL LOOK REDICOULOUS! Don't panic! The logs will eventually self level because they are sitting on top of uncured/wet UV Gel.

Once all nails have self levelled gently ease your hand into the lamp and set the gel for 2 minutes.

Ask your client if she feels any warmth or heat then withdraw her hand (See info on Exothermic Reaction - Heat Spikes). Place the clients hand outside the lamp for 30seconds, but try to keep the nails within the rays of the lamp. This will reduce the amount of rays and help to ease the heat spike. Return the hand to the full rays of the lamp. NOW START YOUR 2 MINUTES CURE TIME. Set the gel for the FULL 2 minutes.

Remove the sticky residue with your "Finishing Wipe" and a tissue/nail pad. You are removing residue because you want to file for perfection.

File For Perfection

OK, your nails PROBABLY look thick and bulky. At this stage we need to refine the shape and produce an arched apex area (natural curve).

BEFORE FILING MAKE SURE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE STICKY RESIDUE.

Using your finishing wipe and a tissue/nail wipe, wipe off the sticky residue.

Using the softer side of your 100/180 white file shape and refine the free edge for perfection.

Then, take a look at the side view of your extension. Then look down the barrel of the tip. You will notice that the free edge's surface is thick and that the side view has no real defined arch. The top surface by the cuticle area should be thin and require little filing (unless you applied the gel too thickly to this area).

READY TO FILE AND RECTIFY THE SHAPE.

Hold your file at the very end, using your softer side of your file, concentrating on the free edge only; sweep the file across the surface of lower part of the nail (free edge area). Use firm, yet directed sweeps. Don't see saw, this will cause friction burns. Use a series of one directional strokes, then change direction and repeat.

Keep checking the status of the shape until you are happy. You are looking to produce a downwards graduated slope from just after the centre of the nail down to the free edge. (see diagram A for area to be filed and diagram B for the finished shape).

Once the shape has been defined, you need to refine and remove the shine from the entire nail. Gently file the remaining area (this area should not really need much work, if any) with your file or a sanding block /sand turtle. We are going to apply a final layer of gel and need the surface to have a matt appearance. The key objective here is to remove the shine.

WORD OF WARNING.

When refining and shaping the free edge for that lovely arch, try not to file into the side walls of the nail. Too much work along the sides will weaken the structure making it prone to cracks in the sides of the nails.

Take a look at the side view of your extension. Then down the barrel of the tip. You'll notice that the free edge's surface is thick and that the side view of the free edge has not much slope to it. The top half (cuticle end) and the centre should not really require much shaping (unless you applied your gel thick or irregular)

READY TO FILE

Reshape the free edge, curved, square or round as desired with the 100 (coarser) side of your file.

Then, holding your file at the very end, using the 180 grit side (softer side of your 100/180 file) . Concentrating on the free edge, sweep your file across the area to thin the tip area. Keep checking on the status of the shape until you are happy. You should have produced a graduating curve. The free edge should be thin and consistent.

Once the free edge has been shaped you can then refine the entire nail. Ideally the remainder of the nail should only require a sanding block or sand turtle. If the shape is irregular, don't panic, just continue to use the 180 side of your file.

WHEN FILING MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT HIT THE NATURAL NAIL AT THE CUTICLE AREA. ONCE YOU BECOME MORE EXPERIENCED YOU WILL NOTICE THAT THIS AREA DOES NOT REALLY REQUIRE ANY REFINING.

Removing The Gel

NON REMOVABLE / TRADITIONAL GEL

Gently buff the nails and leave a thin layer remaining. NEVER buff down to the natural nail. Always leave a thin layer on the nail. This will give it a bit of strength anyway.

Once removed, apply a nail oil to nourish the nail and surrounding skin. Then apply polish or top coat.

REMOVEABLE UV GEL

If you have used our Removable Gel you can soak them off in Tip Remover.

Cut down the length, and break the surface of the gel with your 100 grit side of file. Just quickly remove the shine of the surface.

Fill your soak pots/glass container with Tip Remover, and then pop your clients finger tips into the solution. Check the nails after 10 minutes and gently scrape the surface with an orange stick or fingernail. Pop back in and repeat every 5 -7 minutes till the nail is free of product. Once removed, apply a nail oil to nourish the nail and surrounding skin. Then apply polish or top coat. Some Removable gels may need to be buffed and soaked in rotation

PLEASE NOTE:
Tip Remover is highly flammable. It will strip the surface of varnished and painted tops. Protect your area. Please read help sheet on "Removal". Dispose of your Tip Remover safely and keep out of children's reach.