Consistency

Getting it right!

Remember the key to strong durable and flexible nails that do not lift is achieving a perfect medium-wet bead. Practice and patience and carefully studying this fact sheet will help you to master the required techniques.

 Need Help?

So you still need some help?

Please feel free to contact us with any problems you may have with technique or product application.

Quite often there is a simple solution to what seems like a complex problem.  Don't panic, whatever the problem is, it's probably happened to someone else so you are not alone. 

The best bit is that we've probably got the answer if you really are stuck!

If your problem is non urgent please mail us or ask when you next place an order. If you are desperate then pick up the phone! We will try our best to assist.

Follow the link for our full contact details.

Contact Us

Or mail: Nail Solutions 

Liquid & Powder Application

Liquid & Powder systems (Acrylic) is one of the most popular overlays. The Sheer strength, flexibility and durability of the product make it so. However, it is one of the hardest systems to master, but once mastered strong, natural and beautiful nail enhancements are only a brush stroke away.

Acrylic is the product produced from the combination of a liquid monomer and a polymer powder. The result is a pliable product that can be applied over a nail tip; nail form or even a natural nail. Once the product has been applied it hardens (polymerises / cures) with the warmth of the environment and the temperature of the nail.

As mentioned above the combination of liquid and powder needs warmth to activate the polymerisation process. Crystallisation may occur if the liquid and powder is subjected to cold environments (don’t leave your monomer in your car overnight and expect to use it the following morning) or when applied to nails that are cold. Most liquid monomers available today have added stabilizers to prevent crystallisation or a separate product called a “monomer enhancer” that technician’s can add to their dappen dish prior to application.

Most regular liquid & powder systems are not completely compatible to the nail plate. They need the aid of primer to increase the adhesion. Primer prepares the surface by burning off the bacteria and oils. Primer will also dehydrate the nail plate and create a more receptive surface for the acrylic to adhere to.

	Checkpoint
	Watch Out! Primers freeze at 50 degrees  - so don’t store or keep it in a cold environment (garage or leave over night in your car). Contrary to popular belief primer does not eat away the nail plate.  But, caution must be used. The nail plate is porous and acid based primers can be corrosive to the underlying tissues of the nail bed. One thin coat of primer prior to acrylic application is all that is needed. If you are finding the need to over flood the nail plate with primer or you find you need two coats to produce an adequate bond - there is something wrong. You may find you’ll have to look at either the product you are using or at changing your technique of application. ***

Finding the correct consistency for beginners and even professionals changing systems or brands can be a nightmare. The correct ratio of liquid and powder is vital to produce strong, flexible, durable and non-lifting enhancements. The wrong ratio between liquid and powder can result in premature lifting or breakage. You must find the correct ratio for your brand. ** Most powder and liquid systems require a medium-wet bead (you may find that some odorless systems may require less liquid than normal). 

Too Dry 

A dry bead will result in unsightly thick nails, premature lifting and will be more prone to breakage.

Too Wet

A wet bead will undoubtedly cause lifting. A wet bead may aid a flawless finish, resulting in less filing, but be warned, it WILL produce an overlay prone to lifting and flaking as a result. By using a wet bead you are putting your client at risk of lifting and as a result obtaining a bacterial infection.

Medium Wet

A medium wet bead will produce a strong, flexible yet durable enhancement.

Practice consistency on unused nail tips

          Pick up an acrylic bead with your brush and count to 3 slowly.  This allows time for the liquid to make contact with all the powder.

                    Put the bead onto the tip. Do not move or touch it with your brush and  wait for 5-7 seconds.

                    If the bead reduces by half in height and (runs) almost doubles in diameter it is too wet. If the bead looks slightly cloudy and stays virtually the same height and shape it is too dry. A medium- wet bead will only loose about 25% of its height and increase in diameter by about 25%.

          Don't brush your acrylic on, use gentle, yet firm patting and gliding motions.

Dappen Dish

A dappen dish is used to store small quantities of monomer when applying enhancements.  Monomer evaporates causing fumes and loss of product. A small dappen dish reduces the amount of evaporation. On completion of every service you must disregard any left over monomer. NEVER return it to your source container. Returning used monomer to your bulk container will cause a contamination and will spoil the content. You must always clean your dappen dish between clients to avoid contamination.

Brushes

You must invest in a good 100% pure kolinsky brush, for both performance and durability.  Brushes are available in different sizes and shapes. The most popular with students and some professionals is a “round number 6”. When choosing a brush take into consideration that the larger the brush the more liquid it holds (too much liquid produces wet beads).

Your Brush is a very important and precious tool.  It needs to be cared for and looked after.  On completion of use, you must clean, reshape (not with your fingers) and put away without the bristles touching anything.  We suggest that you store your brush flat rather than upright.  Storing upright can contaminate the bristles.

	Checkpoint
	Top Tip! Plastic Pipettes. Buy one, cut the pipette about 1.5 inches before the bulb. Place the pipette over your brush. The brush hairs will not touch the sides and will leave your brush fully protected. An excellent way to store your brush. So you didn't clean your brush properly and it has gone hard?  Pop a little monomer into the bulb. ***

The following sections will take you through the necessary steps needed to apply acrylic safely and correctly. You must pay particular attention to Area Preparation and Nail Preparation.  These procedures need to be carried out religiously.

Area Preparation 

Before commencement of acrylic (liquid & powder) you must make your working area free from unnecessary tools used for tip application, rebalancing etc. Then you must remove your used paper towel and replace it with a new one to eliminate any dust particle left from previous filing / blending. 

Nail  Preparation

THIS STEP IS VITAL.  Remove the nail plate’s shine with either a white block or a 200-grit file in the direction of the nail growth. Pay particular attention to the cuticle and side wall areas.

• Cleanse the nail plate with your “Nail Prep” to remove dust, oils and bacteria. Your “Nail Prep” will also dehydrate the nail plate (temporarily remove the nails natural moisture content) making the nail plate more receptive.

• Allow your nail prep to dry prior to overlay. The nail plate is porous and needs to dry and shrink back to its original size and shape prior to an overlay

Applying Acrylic

• Step 1: Whilst waiting for the “Nail Prep” to dry you can prepare your liquid & powder. Your brush will need to be primed prior to use. Fill your dappen dish 3/4 full of monomer liquid. Submerge the bristles of your brush into the liquid to free it from air pockets and to prime it. Wipe the brush carefully on a paper towel. 

• Step 2: If you are using a system that requires the use of primer apply a thin coat of primer to the nail and allow to dry. If you are using a primerless system please ignore this step.

• Step 3: Dip the brush back in to the monomer ready for acrylic application, then press the sides of the brush against your dappen dish to release any excess liquid.

• Step 4: Dip the tip of the brush gently into your powder and slightly rotate the brush to pick up a small bead of acrylic. Count to 3 slowly to allow the liquid in the brush to make contact with the powder.

• Step 5: Place the bead on Zone 1. You must allow the bead to settle prior to manipulation. Wait for 5-7 seconds, then using the combination of gentle patting and pressing motions glide the product across the area of Zone 1. Wipe the brush gently on your paper towel to remove any excess product from the brush. (See fig 2)

• Step 6: If your client requires a permanent French look you can use white powder for zone 1 instead. A permanent French is a lot harder to master. Achieving a perfect “smile line” takes a lot of practice. (See fig 3)

• Step 7: Repeat Steps 2,3 & 4 for Zone 2.  (See fig 4)

• Step 8:  Zone 3 is a much smaller area. Repeat steps 2,3 & 4 but try to use less liquid and pick up a smaller bead. Apply the bead carefully to the cuticle area; try to leave at least a 1.5 mm gap. Contact between the cuticle and sidewall area with the product will undoubtedly cause premature lifting. (See fig 5).

• Step 9: Wipe any excess product from the brush onto a paper towel and then clean your brush with the monomer in the dappen dish. Tidy your working area ready for finishing.

Application over the nail form

The following diagram maybe helpful with this technique 

Finishing

By the time you have applied the acrylic to all 10 nails, the first hand should be set and ready for finishing. If you have applied the product carefully and not to thickly your finishing should not require excessive filing. 

• Tap the nail gently to see if it has set. Using your 100/180 grit file, shape the free edge to the clients desired shape. 

• File the surface of the nail to level any bumps or unevenly distributed product. Take extra care not to hit the surrounding skin.

• Excessive filing in the cuticle and sidewall area will weaken the product and may damage the nail or rip the cuticles. Keep your file flat, do not angle the file to the nail.  Keep the file moving. If you concentrate on a particular area you may cause the client to experience friction burns. The key to less filing is product application. If you concentrate on your application methods, you will find that filing when finishing will be reduced to a minimum

• Once you have reached the desired shape, buff the surface with a white block to eliminate any remaining surface scratches.

• Apply a nail oil to nourish the nail and the surrounding skin. If your client requires a high shine, buff the nail with a 3 way buffer.

• Ask for payment prior to varnishing.  Apply a base coat, varnish and top coat if required. Book an appointment for 2 weeks for a rebalance. Explain aftercare methods and retail items available.

This fact sheet has been prepared for use as a guideline only. You will find that guidelines differ from company to company and sometimes information compared from one to the other can be contradictive. Each company has their own set of recommendations.

These fact sheets may be used for your personal use only. Nail Solutions fact sheets may not be reproduced by any means and or distributed without the express permission of Nail Solutions Limited.